I thought you would like those pictures, but not my best work at taking them.
I'm surprised that you did not call cheating on me for saying I was building this from scratch after you saw the XY plotter bed lol.
Truthfully, I was not sure I was going to use it, but some other projects came up that will need this to be more robust than the original
stepper motor parts I was going to use with the Click-Stepper driver boards.
To use these motors, I will need to make a different MMB-stepper driver controller (2 motor drivers), to handle the power they will need to
run quick and cool instead of the Click stepper controllers. The stepper on a rail (in last picture) with cog belt drive was original planned parts to use for all axis,
so Click stepper controller could be used to drive/control them.
I'm not sure I follow the questions sorry. The terms "current" and "track" in this usage is causing me some confusion?MaGiK wrote:Is the CNC going to have the ability to change the width of a particular track that is expected to carry a large amount of current?
Or would it be needed to go through that particular track more than once to create the required width?
Are you wondering about the cutting bits size if large, causing heavy load on power to steppers driver(s)/controllers?
For milling soft metals (aluminum, brass, copper), the router bit used will be almost the smallest I have on hand now (approx. 1-2mm or smaller).
The largest for soft metals is around 3-4mm diameter. Probably will only drill, cut (cutoff disc) or grind hard metals with the CNC unit.
Soft materials like plastic and wood will use larger bits, up to around 1cm I think (not in my shop to check), but will probably be able to use
full size normal wood router bits (on wood ).
I've learned that it is usually better to use small diameter cutting bits and feed it slow so the temperature on bits are lower and their teeth stay sharp and finish of
the work done looks better and has less mistakes.
Bigger bits can grab too much material and try to wander and cause kickback chatter that causes errors and possible damage to CNC frame alignment or axis moving HW.
I will also implement an automatic oil/water system that can keep the router bit lubricated (longer bit life, smoother surface with less noise and flying material generated) if needed and allowable for the work stock material.
The bottom bed for the Y-axis will be a stainless steel tray/tub that captures all fluids (oil & water) and cut material carried there by the fluids.
Any milling cut to be made that is wider than the bit being used, will do it in multiple passes with bit milling off material in bites that are
half of the bits diameter and feed travel is done so cutting face of bit is always spinning into new material to be removed (most resistance to moving).
(trying to do it by hand like a CNC would is near impossible and gets harder the larger the cutting tools diameter is.)
Have you ever taken a Hard Disk Drive apart and looked at the milling done inside to make the different seats at different heights for mounting
the spindle motor, R/W head arms bearing, arms magnet(s) cage/shield, heads driver/position circuit board(s) and pass thru electrical connectors?
This mill should be able to do any of that, that you see in there, and if it operates (and is physically aligned) correctly, the swirly pattern(s)
you see in the milled away flat bright areas (not painted) of the aluminum will be what this mill does also, if bit is sharp and free of nicks
on cutting faces.
Here is one more picture of a air powered salt shotgun for killing insects I made without a mill, just a high speed dremel in a very nice brass and aluminum
freehand router stand and aluminum clamping plates I made for one of my vises to hold parts and provide a flat plain for moving the dremel
around on above the held part (only XY movement milling cuts are done to part until all needed material is removed, then turn router off and
lower the z axis (bit) down to repeat as many times needed).
(note: I could also clamp guides/fences to my vise clamp plates that acted as travel limit stops if I needed precise flat plunge cut faces (Z axis plain faces) done or put a template cut out shape between the router and clamping plates to make slots or round plunge cuts.)
(fine table salt is ammo, siphon fed to barrel and shoots a small pinch each shot. 30-40 shots per fill) I made a wooden pistol grip for it after that picture was taken and I sold it to my mothers boyfriend a week ago. It is now halfway
across the U.S. from me and being used to fight off hummingbird size mosquitoes (he claims ).
I need this mill going so I can make more (but different design) of them, as I am now unarmed and our hunting season is getting into
full on assault mode (the mosquitoes and spiders and flies, not me now, damn it, there is No a Salt flying).
New design will use preset mechanism to deliver same amount of salt to barrel right before air piston is released and the pistons spring/size will be larger, no more wondering if bug was hit/killed.
Everything but the screws and air piston cylinder and springs was handmade milling or lathed from scrap/spare aluminum/brass I have stored around home/shop.
Zoom in* and look closely at the trigger and you should see the milling swirls on the rear narrowed (milled down from each side) area.
*(sorry, I tried to do that myself and image quality is not as good as I thought/expected. looked better when it was a bmp before converting to jpg )
Oh, and the bug gun can kill many insects @ up to 2-3 feet, closer is better. point blank (inches) range and they disappear, usually blown
down range with wings or legs missing and dead/dying fast. Long range hits may not be known, but I find some insects I thought I missed laying dead shortly after sometimes.
If one grain of the salt penetrates most bugs bodies, they are done for and won't be seen again.!
WARNING:!! Using these guns is addictive and is known to cause people to leave their homes windows or doors open
so more targets/game enters to be shot at after the users clear a home of offensive intruders.
(too quickly many say)
Anyway, let me know if I guessed right on your questions, or set me straight Robert.